Garment trimming machine



March 5, 1940. H. LEHDE GARMENT TRIMMINQ l MACHINE Filed Oct, 7, 1939 2 Sheets-Sheet' 1 March 5, 1940. H. LEHDE GARMENT, TIMMING MACHINE 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Oct. 7, 1939 MINIMUM-] \\\\"h IIIIIIIIIIII` 60 y L? mala* Moz p gama-@T55 Patented Mar. 5, 1940 UNITED STATES lPATENT OFFICE GARMENT 'rmMMlNG MACHINE Henry Lelide, Brooklyn, N.. Y. Application October 7, 1939, Serial INo. 298,434

19 claims.` (ci. 164-11) a form and manually trimming the bottom of thev skirt to a straight edge with a pair of scissors.

This method is necessarily slow, tedious and inaccurate.

The principal object of the present invention' is to provide a very simple and easily operated apparatus for accurately trimming the bottoms of skirts, dresses or the like to a straight edge at any desired length.

Another object of the invention is to provide -such apparatus having a smooth and positive cutting 'action on the skirt.

Another object of the invention is to provide such apparatus which is adaptable to skirts of varying width and form, particularly to skirts having different draped eil'ects.

Another object of the invention is to provid such apparatus in which the dress can be readily draped around a form and in which the proper cutting of the bottom of the skirt along the y desired line is insured.

Another object of the invention is to provide such apparatus which can be operated either manually or by power.

Another aim is to provide such apparatus which is simple and inexpensive in construction and is convenient in operation and also in which there is no danger of injury to the operator.v

Another aim of the invention is to provide such apparatus in which the cutting edges are maintained in a sharp condition for a long period of time and which will remain in serviceable condition for a long period of time without requiring repairs or adjustments other than those necessary to adapt the apparatus to skirts of different lengths.

In the accompanying drawings:

Fig. 1 is a side elevation of`a dress trimmer embodying my invention and showing the parts in the position occupied during the actual sloping of a skirt.

Fig. 2 is a, vertical section through the apparatus shown in Fig. 1 and showing the position of' the parts when a dress is being hung upon the form preparatory to sloping.

Fig, 3 is a view similar to Fig. 1 and lshowing an intermediate position of the parts.

Figs. 4 and 5 are horizontal sections, taken on the correspondingly numbered lines on Fig. 2.

Fig. 6 is afragmentary vertical section, taken on line 6 6, Fig. 1.

Fig. 'I isa fragmentary view similar toFig. 1

and showing an elastic band applied tojthe bottom of the skirt 'tofacilitate the sloping operation. 1

Fig. 8 isa viewsimilar to Fig. '1 showing a modified form of the invention.

, I n the form of the invention illustrated in Figs. 1-7 the numeral I0 represents a base supporting a post or shaft II carrying a bushing I2 upon which adress form I3 is mounted. To permit of adjusting the apparatus to trim the skirts to l5 different lengths, the dress form I3 is preferably adjustable to different vertical positions on the post II and for this `purpose the bushing I2 is shown as being held in place by a set screw I4.

The dressv I5 to be sloped is hung on the dress i form I3 with the skirt hanging over the sloping mechanismarranged immediately above the base I'Il. The slopingnmechanism is supported ona sleeve 20, this sleeve being non-rotatably mounted on the lower end of the post Il. To permit of adjusting the trimming mechanism to skirts of different length, this sleeve is preferably adjustable to different vertical positions on the post I I and for this purpose is shown as being connected to the post I I by a pair of set i screws 2| which can be loosened to permit the sleeve to be moved up or vdown and then tightened to hold the sleeve in any desired position. 'I'he sleeve is shown as being provided with a flange 22 supporting a horizontal disk 23, this J disk being preferably made of wood or other nailable material to permit of y securing the bottom of the skirt to it by means of thumb tacks or the like. This disk 23 is non-rotatably mounted on the flange 22 and is therefore held stationary during the operation of the apparatus.` To the underside of this disk is suitably-attached a shearing ring 24, the sharpened edge 25 of which preferably extends outwardly beyond the periphcured to the lower end of the sleeve 20 in any I shearing ring 24 to trim the lower end ameter than the disks 23 and 26.

Between the disks 26 and 38 the sleeve 20 carries a rotatable bushing 35 which is shown as being supported on the hub of the disk 3|). This bushing carries a pair of vertically spaced radially projecting rods 36 and 31, the outer ends of these rods being shown as connected by a spacer 38 which can be attached to the ends of these rods in any suitable manner. The rods 36 and 31 slidingly support a cutting mechanism indicated generally at 39 and including a cutting disk cooperating with thevr stationary cutting or of the skirt |5 to the desired length.

This cutting mechanism is shown as being carried by a pair of horizontal sleeves 40 and 4| slidably mounted on the rods 36 and- 31 and connected to one another by a bearing post 42 which is shown as being formed integrally with the sleeves 40 and 4| and arranged at one side of these sleeves. The rear ends of the sleeves 40 and 4| are shown as being connected by a spacer 1 43. 'I'he-bearing post 42 is formed to provide a bearing for a vertical shaft 45, a horizontal cutting disk v46 being secured to the upper end of this shaft in any suitable manner, this cutting disk being adapted to cooperate with the cutting ring 24 in trimming the lower edge of the skirt |5. A friction wheel 41 is non-rotatably secured to the lower end of the shaft in any suitable manner which will permit vertical movement of the shaft 45 in the wheel 41, this friction wheel 41 being arranged to engage the periphery of the stationary disk 30 when the sliding cutting mechanism 39 is slid inwardly to its operative position.

The mechanism for sliding the cutting mechanism into `and out of its operative position comprises a handle 50 which is pivotally secured adjacent its center, as indicated at 5|, to one side of the spacer 38 and has its inner endy connected by a compressible link, indicated generally at 52, tothe spacer 4 3 connecting the rear ends of the `sliding sleeves 46 and 4|. This compressible link 52 can be of any form and'is` shown as having an `end 53 pivotally secured to the inner end of the handle 58 and provided'with a slideway 56 receiving a rod 51 carried by the other end 58 of the link, this other end beingpivotally secured to the spacer 43. A helical compression spring 59 yis shown as surrounding vthe rod 51 of this com- A pressible-link'and as interposed between the two ends '53 and 58 thereof so as normally to urge the compressible link 52int'o an expandedconditlon. The? cutting disk' 46'is movable vertically into operative and inoperative positions andfor this purpose the shaft 45 is slidably mounted in the bearing post 42 and in the friction wheel 41 and is provided with a helical'compression spring 60 surrounding its upper end immediately below the cutting disk` 46 and with a helical compression spring 6| surrounding itslower end and interposed between the friction wheel 41 and a collar 62 secured to the lower end of -the shaft 45. The underside of the relatively strong compression spring 60 at the upper end ofthe shaft 45 is sup- DOrted by the central bar of a U-shaped arm 63, one end of which is pivoted, as indicated at 64, to the upper sliding-'sleeve 48| adjacent its center and the other end of which is supported bythe inner end 58 of the compressible link 52.

In order to hold the lower end of the skirt |5 against displacement during the cutting opera` vthe rods 36 and the lower end of the skirt and against the periphery of the stationary disk 26 when the slidingl cutting mechanism is moved inwardly to its operative position. This wheel 65 preferably has a rim or tire of resilient material and is rotatably mounted at the upper end of an arm 66, the lower end of which its pivoted, as indicated at 61, to the lower sliding sleeve 4| adjacent its rear end. 'I'he arm 66 is shown as being yieldingly held in an inwardly projected position by a'. helical compression spring 68 interposed between the lower end of this arm and the vertical bearing post 42 which carries the shaft 45. The movement of the arm 66 under the inuence of this spring and its movement in the opposite direction on engaging the skirt |5 and the periphery of the stationary disk 26 is limited by an arcuate slot 69 in which a stop screw 10 is arranged, this stop screw 10 being secured to the upper sliding sleeve 40.

To permit of rotating the cutting mechanism by power a bevel gear 15 is shown as rotatably mounted on the lower end of the post this gear being driven by a pinion 16 mounted on a power shaft 11 which can be driven by an electric motor (not shown)r or from any other suitable source of power. To the upper face of this gear 15 is secured an arm 18 preferably by means of a screw 19 or other fastening which can be removed so as to disconnect the arm 18 from the gear 15. The arm 18 is slotted at its outer end, as indicated at 80, this slot extending radially and receiving the lower end of the shaft 45. The slot 88 permits the sliding cutting mechanism to be moved radially inwardly and outwardlly, along 31, independently of the power arm 18.

If desired the lower end ,of'the dress l5 can be secured to the disk 23 to insure the proper sloping of the dress. As illustrated in Fig. '1 an elastic band 8| can be stretched around the lower end of the skirt l5 and the periphery of the disk 23 and the ends of this elastic band held by a thumb tack (not shown) passed through the ends of the band and into the periphery of the wooden disk 23.

In sloping dresses by the apparatus illustrated in Figs. 1;-7 the parts are first moved to the position illustrated in Fig. 2 by raising the handle so as to withdraw the sliding cutting mechanism 39 to its outer inoperative position on the rods 36, 31 as illustrated in Fig. 2. 'I'he operator then hangs the dress I5 on the dress form I3 and drapes the skirt-with its folds in proper order around the stationary disks 23 and 26 of the trimming mechanism at the base of the form. The operator can then pass the elastic band 8| around the bottom of the skirt and the periphery of the wooden disk 23 and secure the ends of this band in position by thumb tacks. The operator then depresses the handle 50. Since the handle 50 is pvoted at its centerthe inner end of the handle is moved inwardly and effects an inward movement of the compressible link 52, pressure being applied to the helical compression spring 59 forming a part of this link and this pressure being transmitted to the inner end 58 of the link. This radially inward movement of the helical compression link moves the assembly carried by the sliding sleeves 40 and 4| inwardly along the rods 36 and .31 thereby to move the rotating cutting.r disk 46 into engagement with the cloth of the garment |5 and the friction wheel 41 into engagement with the periphery of the stationary friction disk 30. At the same time the wheel 65 is moved into engagement with the bottom of the skirt 5 and against the periphery of the stationary disk 26 so that the free end of the skirt is securely held immediately below the point of cutting. In this position of the parts, illustrated in Fig. 3, the rotating cutting disk 46 has not been moved upwardly into operative relation with the cutting edge of the stationary cutting ring 24 carried by the disk 23.

This movement of the rotating cutting wheel 46 into operative relation with the stationary cutting edge 25 is elected by a further depression of the handle 50 from the position shown in Fig. 3 to the position shown in Fig. 1. This nal movement o the handle `5|) serves to carry the pivot between the inner .end of the handle 50 and the compres-sible link 52 above dead center so that the position of this handle and the link, as shown in Fig. l, is automatically maintained until the handle 50 is deliberately raised. This upwardl movement of the compressible link 52 above dead center also raises the outer end of the U-shaped lever 63 and exerts sufficient pressure on the lower end of the relatively strong compression spring 60 to raise the shaft 45. This upward movement of the shaft 45 causes the upper face of the rotating cutting disk 46 to bear against the lower face of the stationary cutting ring 24 under the pressure of the spring 68.

Upon then .applying power to the shaft 11 the gear 15 and arm 18 are rotated to swing the arm 18 around the dress. The rotating movement of the arm 18 is transmitted to the shaft 45 so4 as to cause the slidable cutting mechanism 39 and its supporting rods 36 and 31 to rotate around the dress, the rods 36 and 31 being mounted on the rotatable bushing 35 for this purpose. At the same time the rotation of the cutting mechanism 39 around the post Il as an axis causes the friction wheel 41 to be rotated' on its axis because of the frictional engagement of this wheel with the periphery of the stationary friction disk 30. The rotation of this friction wheel 41 eifects a rotation of the shaft 45 in the bearing provided by the vertical post 42 and since this shaft carries the rotating cutting disk 46, this disk is likewise rotated. In operation the cutting disk 46 is rotated about the axis of the main supporting post Il and about its own axis, as indicated by the arrows in Fig. 4 and it will therefore be seen that the cutting edges 25 of the stationary cutting disk 24 and the rotating cutting disk 46 tend to gather the material of the dress between them, thereby to insure the sloping of the garment along a straight line.

It will also be noted that since the stationary friction disk 30 is of larger diameter than the cutting ring 24 and that since the friction wheel 41 driven by the stationary friction disk 30 is of smaller diameter than the rotating cutting wheel 46, the cutting wheel 46 is rotated at a relatively high speed so as to effect a positive cutting action in cooperation with the stationary cutting edge 25 rather than a mere shearing action as would be the case if the two cutting edges had a mere rolling relation to one another. Since the wheel 65 firmly holds the lower end of the skirt I5 against the disk 26 and as this roller travels around immediately below the cutting disk 46 it will be seen that the material of the dress is securely held in place above and below the cutting point so as to insure the trimming of the skirt along a straight line.

lIn the modified form of the invention illustrated in Fig. 8, the arm 66 carrying the small holding wheel 65 is shown as additionally provided with a laterally and upwardly projecting extension 85, this extension carrying another small roller 86 similar to the roller 65 and arranged to engage the periphery of the stationary disk 23 which carries the stationary cutting ring 24. It will be seen that with this form of the invention it is unnecessary to apply the elastic tape 8| around the bottom of the skirt and against the periphery of the stationary disk 23 since the skirt is held above and below the line of cutting by the two rollers 86 and 65.

After the rods 36 and 31 have been swung completely around the dress form and the sloping of the dress completed, the operator releases the power drive to the shaft 11 so as to discontinue rotation of the cutting mechanismaround the main post Il as an axis. He thereupon lifts the handle 50 to the position shown in Fig. 2, this lifting moving the compressiblelink 52 below dead center and also moving the cutting mechanism outwardly along the rods 36 and 31 to the position shown in Fig. 2. This breaks the driving connection between the stationary friction disk 30 and the friction wheel ,41 thereby to discontinue rotation of the cutting disk 46 and also serves to lower the U-shaped arm 63 so as to permit this rotating cutting disk 46 to drop. At the same time this rotating cutting disk, together with the wheel 65, is moved radially outwardly fromthe cutting edge 25 and disk 26 with which they cooperate. can thereupon be removed from the form I3 and another dress hung upon this form and sloped in the manner just described.

If it is desired to trim the skirts to a greater length. the dress form I3 can be elevated on the post Il by loosening-theset screw I4 and raising the form -13 or the sleeve 20 can be lowered by loosening the set screws 2l. dress form I3 will be arranged at a greater distance from the trimming mechanism so that the trimmed skirt will be longer.

'From the foregoing it will be seen that the dress trimmer forming the subject ofthe invention provides a very simple and easily operated mechanism for accurately trimming the bottom of skirts, dresses or the like to a straight line at any desired length and in which the parts provide a smooth and positive cutting action. It will also be seen that the direction and speed of rotation of the rotatable cutting disk 46 tends to pull the folds of the dress toward the cutting `In either case the- The dress l5 point and thereby minimize any tendency for the folds to be disarranged.

It will `also be seen that the features of the invention can be widely modied, the invention essentially consisting in a rotating shearing edge traveling around a stationary shearing edge which is approximately the size of the garment beingA cut and over which the dress is hung. The invention is therefore not to be limited to the detailed embodiment shown and described, but is to be accorded the full range of equivalents comprehended by the accompanying claims.

I claim as my invention:

1. In a garment trimming machine, the combination of means for supporting said garment, a rotatingcutting member, means for rotating said cutting member and means for moving said rotatingv cutting member around the garment with its cutting edge in engagement therewith.

2. In a garment trimming machine, the combination of means for supporting said garment, a-rotating cutting member, means forrotating said cutting member, means for moving said rotating cutting member around the garment with its cutting edge in engagement therewith and means for holding said garment at the point where said cutting member engages said garment.

3. In a garment trimming machine, the combination of means for supporting said garment to hang around la vertical axis, a horizontal rotary cutting member, means for rotating said cutting member around its axis and means for simultaneously rotating said cutting member about said vertical axis and in cutting engagement with said garment.

4. In a garment trimming machine, the combination of a vertical post, means for hanging the garment on said post, an arm rotatably imounted on said post, a rotating cutting member mounted on said arm to rotate about a vertical axis, means for rotating said cutting member around said axis and means for simultaneously rotating said arm about said post with said cutting member in engagement with said garment.

5. In a garment trimming machine, the combination of a vertical post, means for hanging the garment on said post, an arm rotatably mounted on said post, a rotating cutting member mounted on said arm to rotate about a vertical axis, means for rotating said cutting member around said axis, means for simultaneously rotating said arm about said post with said cutting member in engagement with said garment and means for moving said cutting member along said arm toward and from said post.

6. In a garment trimming machine, the combination of means for supporting said garment, a stationary member arranged within said garment and having a continuous shearing edge, a shearing disk arranged outside of said garment and adapted to cooperate with said shearing edge, means for rotating said shearing disk about its axis and means for rotating said shearing disk around said shearing edge.

'7. In a garment trimming machine, the com- 4 bination of a vertical post, means for hanging a garment on said post to hang therearound, a sta. tionary member carried by said post and having a continuous horizontal outwardly extending cutting edge, an arm rotatably mounted on said post, a shearing disk mounted on said arm outside of said garment and movable along said arm to cooperate with said shearing edge, means for rotating said shearing disk around its axis and means for rotating said shearing disk around said shearing edge.

8. In a garment trimming machine, the combination of a vertical post, means for hanging a garment on said post to hang therearound, a stationary member carried by said post and having a continuous horizontal outwardly extending cutting edge, an arm rotatably mounted on said post, a shearing disk mounted on said arm outside of said garment and movable along said arm to cooperate with said shearing edge, means for rotating said shearing disk around its axis, means for rotating said shearing disk around said shearing edge and means for adjusting said garment hanging means vertically relative to said shearing edge and shearing disk.

9. In a garment trimming machine, the combination of means for supporting the garment, a stationary member arranged Within said garment and having a continuous shearing edge, a shearing disk arranged outside of said garment and adapted to cooperate with said shearing edge, means for moving said shearing disk into and out of operative relation with said shearing edge, means for rotating said shearing disk about its axis, means for rotating said shearing disk around said shearing edge and means for applying pressure between said shearing edgel and shearing said shearing edge and means actuated through motion derived from the movement of said shearing disk toward and from said shearing edge for applying pressure between said shearing edge and shearing disk.

11. In a garment trimming machine, the combination of means for supporting thegarment, a stationary shearing disk arranged within said garment, a stationary friction disk generally concentric with said stationary shearing disk, a ro' tatable shearing disk arrranged outside of said garment and cooperating with said stationary shearing disk to trim the portion of the garment interposed therebetween, a rotatable friction disk engaging said stationary friction disk,

drive means for rotating said rotatable shearing ldisk through motion derived from said rotatable friction disk and means for moving said rotatable disks around said stationary disks.

12. In a garment trimming machine, the combination of means for supporting the garment, a stationary shearing disk arranged within said garment, a stationary friction disk arranged generally concentric with said stationary shearing disk, an arm rotatable about the axis of said stationary disks, a holder carried by said arm outside of said garment, a rotatable shearing disk carried by said holder and cooperating with said stationary shearing disk to trim the portion of the garment interposed therebetween, and a rotatable friction disk carried by said holder and driving said rotatable shearing disk, said rotatable friction disk engaging said stationary friction disk.

13. In a garment trimming machine, the combination of means for supporting the garment, a stationary shearing disk arranged within said garment, a stationary friction disk arranged generally concentric with said stationary shearing disk, an arm rotatable about the axis of said stationary disks, a holder carried by said arm outside of said garment, a rotatable shearing disk carried by said holder and cooperating with said stationary shearing diskv to trim the portion of the garment interposed therebetween, a rotatable friction disk carried by said holder and driving said rotatable shearing disk, said rotatable friction disk engaging said stationary friction disk and means for moving said holder along said arm and into and out of operative relation with said stationary disks.

14. In a garment trimming machine, the combination of means for supporting the garment, a stationary shearing disk arranged within said garment, a stationary friction disk arranged generally concentric with said stationary shearing disk, an arm rotatable about the axis of said stationary disks, a holder carried by said arm outside of said garment, a rotatable shearing disk carried by said holder and cooperating with said stationary shearing disk to trim the portion of the garment interposed therebetween, a rotatable friction disk carried by said holder and driving said rotatable shearing disk, said rof tatable friction disk engaging said stationary friction disk and means carried by said arm for moving said holder along said arm and into and out of operative relation with said stationary disks.

15. In a garment trimming machine, the comtion of the garment interposed therebetween, a

rotatable friction disk carried by said holder and driving said rotatable shearing disk, said roftatable friction disk engaging said stationary friction disk and means carried by said holder for pressing said rotatable friction disk axially into engagement with said stationary friction disk.

16. In a garment trimming machine, the combination of means for supporting the garment, a stationary shearing disk arranged within said garment, a stationary friction disk generally concentric with said stationary shearing disk, a rotatable shearing disk'arranged outside of said garment and ,cooperating with said stationary shearing disk to trim the portion of the garment interposed therebetween, a rotatable friction disk engaging said stationary friction disk, drive means for rotating said rotatable shearing disk through motion derived from said rotatable friction disk, means for holding said garment at the point where said shearing disks engage and means for moving said rotatable disks around said stationary disks.

17. In a garment trimming machine, the combination of means for supporting the garment, a stationary shearing disk arranged within said garment, a stationary friction disk generally concentric with said stationary shearing disk, a rotatable shearing disk arranged outside of said garment and cooperating vwith said stationary shearing disk to trim the portion of the garment interposed therebetween, a rotatable friction disk engaging said stationary friction disk, drive means for rotating said rotatable shearing disk through motion derived from said rotatable friction disk, `means for holding saidy garment on opposite sides of the point where said shearing disks engage and means for moving said rotatable disks around said stationary disks.

18. In a garment trimming machine, the combination, of means for supporting the garment, a stationary shearing disk arranged Within said garment, a stationary friction disk generally concentric with said stationary shearing disk, a rotatable shearing disk arranged outside of said garment and cooperating with saidstationary shearing disk to trim the portion of the garment interposed therebetween, a rotatable friction disk engaging said stationary friction disk, drive means for rotating said rotatable shearing disk through motion derived from said rotatable friction disk, means for holding said garment at the -point where said shearing disks engage, comprising a stationary disk arranged Within said garment and means vfor holding the garment against said last stationary disk immediately adjacent the point where said shearing disks engage and means for moving said rotatable disks around said stationary disks.

19. In a garment trimming machine,l the combination of means for supporting the garment, a stationary shearing disk arranged within said garment, a stationary friction disk arranged genble friction disk engaging said stationary fric` tion disk and means for holding the garment at the point where said shearing disks engage.

HENRY LEI-IDE. 

